Vodka (or as it was known in 1850s Russia – Wodka) was first commercialized by Pyotr Smirnov. He and his son Vladimir enjoyed great success up until 1917 when the Bolshevik Revolution ushered in the era of Communist dictators.
Vladimir fled Russia and sought refuge in France post 1917. However, the French were not ready to embrace his colorless spirit called Vodka.
The worldwide rights to Smirnov Vodka were eventually sold in 1934 to US businessman Rudolph Kunnets. Kunnets soon discovered that Americans too were unwilling to embrace the clear spirit.
But, WW 2 ushered in a sea-change of attitude across America. Bartenders began to embrace the concept of the mixed drink. They soon figured out that Vodka with its lack of color and lack of aroma did not corrupt mixed drinks such as Bloody Mary’s, Harvey Wallbangers and Moscow Mules.
I recently came across a book by Russian author William Pokhlebkin. In his book he argues that “cocktails are merely a means of getting drunk”. He says that “the correct role for Vodka is as a table drink to accompany Russian food dishes”. He goes on to say that in 1850s Russia, Vodka was sipped during a meal. Over the time spent eating a meal, a person might go through 1-2 ounces of Vodka. So, not enough to get drunk. Just enough to cleanse the palate between bites and to make the meal more enjoyable.
I think there is a screaming opportunity here for the craft distiller. The opportunity is one of educating the consumer to start sipping Vodka straight up with food. For the restaurant industry, people should be encouraged to pair a good craft distilled Vodka with their meals. About 7 years ago while on a trip to New York, I had this Vodka pairing experience at the Russian Tea Room, located next to Carnegie Hall. To this day, I have fond memories of that dinner in New York. The consumer should be further reminded that every serious liquor cabinet needs a few good craft distilled Vodkas in it. I now regularly sip Vodka with my meals and I can attest it adds a whole new dimension to dining.
At this point the expression “good” needs to be clarified. There are craft distillers out there (ie Lucky Bastard in Saskatoon, Canada, Long Table Distillers, Vancouver) who are taking Neutral Grain Spirits and running this material through a small still. This is NOT a good Vodka. In fact, I would never touch such a poor excuse for Vodka. On the other hand, any craft distiller who takes the time to mash his own grain and conduct a stripping run followed by a rectification run in a multi-plate column still is making a “good” Vodka.
If you are reading this blog, please…take the time to find a “good” Vodka. If you are unable to find a good craft vodka in your area, then may I suggest a bottle of Ketel One. Sip the Vodka with meals. I then invite you to contact me to share your thoughts on this old world Russian way of drinking Vodka.
Cheers
