The next time you taste a Japanese whisky – like Nikka Malt whisky – you will note the distinct fruity, estery flavors. As part of my studies at Heriot Watt University, I have come across some journal papers that point out the Japanese deliberately add Lactobacillus bacteria towards the end of the fermentation. These microbes feast on whatever may be left of the fermentable sugars in the fermenter plus they feast on the dead carcasses of yeast cells that have expired. What these microbes generate is lactic acid. According to the literature, this acid can alter the structure of fatty acids in the fermented wash to generate lactones plus they can combine with alcohol molecules to create esters. Net result – better mouthfeel and better flavor. I recently saw an add in a magazine for a Lallemand product called Sour Pitch which is Lactobacillus Plantarum microbes. This product is aimed at craft brewers seeking to make sour beers. I contacted Lallemand and they graciously provided me with some Sour Pitch. I have now completed 3 mashes using one of my Bourbon recipes. In one mash I added zero microbes. In the 2nd, I added a measured quantity after 84 hrs of fermentation and left the bacteria to grow in the fermenter for 24 more hours. In the 3rd, I let the same measured dose of bacteria grow for 48 more hours. I have now done A’Lembic pot distillation strip runs and spirit runs. I will be sending samples to Lallemend for GC analysis.We hope to be able to identify the presence of esters on the GC plots and we hope that the 48 hrs sample will have a greater ester profile. Stay tuned for the outcome….
Author Archives: prohibitionuniversity@gmail.com
Home Distillers – Here’s One for You to Try…
Back in February when I was in Scotland I toured Glengoyne Distilling just outside the Glasgow suburb of Milngavie. I was seriously impressed with how open and welcoming the team was at Glengoyne – in particular my tour guide Jo-Anne.
I learned that many Scotch distillers use something called Distiller’s Malt – which is a malt barley more highly modified than the usual 2-row pale malt commonly available in North America. A higher degree of modification means that the sprouted grains have been dried “low and slow”. The naturally occurring enzymes in the grain thus are more apt to survive the drying process. In the typical Pale Malt, the drying process is quicker and many of the natural enzymes are killed off, save for Alpha amylase and Beta amylase.
Back in Canada, I recently approached my grain distributor ( Western Malt Distributors in Saskatoon) to inquire about Distiller’s Malt. I soon learned that it is available through Cargill (USA) – so I ordered 6 bags. More costly than the regular Pale Malt – but such is the tuition cost of learning. Upon opening the first bag – I was hit with beautiful malty, biscuit-like aromas. For sure – different than the standard Pale Malt.
As I sit here on this Saturday morning, I am doing that final 2 mashes from these 6 bags. My arms are sore and so they ought to be. Hand-cranking 300 pounds of grain through my little roller mill is a lot of work. No need to visit the gym this month!
Each mash was remarkably consistent giving me 21 Brix after a 63C rest and a 72C rest. What’s more the sweet goodness of this malt was beyond beautiful. To add to the flavor, I included in each mash some Simpson’s Smoked Malt (27 ppm phenol) and some Chocolate Malt.
I fermented all my mashes with Lallemand MW yeast for 5 days. I then did stripping runs on my 60 L A’lembic still and ran each run until my hydrometer read 10%. In other words, I stripped everything out.
The stripped distillate was then re-distilled in my 20L A’lembic. The majority of these spirits runs came off at 85% and towards the end of the run, tailed off. I stopped collecting when my hydrometer read 55-60%. each spirits run yielded on average a distillate that was about 72-75% alc. It was interesting to taste these late runnings when teh hydrometer was at or near 60%. The notes of chocolate (from the Chocolate Malt) were very evident.
I have now about filled a 56L barrel at 58% alc and that barrel shall rest for at least 3 years. I think this is going to be a fabulous product.
If you can get your hands on some Distiller’s Malt, give it a go. I think you will be impressed.
Oh…and by the way…if you are curious about the next 5 Day Distillery Workshop – it is set for the week of Sept 11th at Urban Distilleries in Kelowna, BC. See their website for registration details. There might be one more in late October – but my Heriot Watt M.Sc. school work is going to again take priority for me….. I have one more course to do this Fall and will be starting my thesis project as well.
Spirits Awards – Some British Sensibility Restores My Faith
Thanks to some British sensibility, my faith in Spirits Awards is now partly restored. The World Drinks Awards in my humble opinion appears to be on the track towards doing it right. Entries are slotted into their various categories and then each category judged once to weed out products that do not conform to expected characteristics. Surviving products are judged again to further whittle down the list. And then again to identify the category winner. There is none of the usual suspect nonsense of 19 people in a category all taking Gold, 23 people taking Silver and so on. In my travels, if I see a craft distiller ( or a distiller in general) who has won at this British event, I will definitely pay close attention to that product….
SPIRITS AWARDS – CAVEAT EMPTOR – BUYER BEWARE
In her book Generation Y and the New Work Ethic, thought-leader Jeanne Martinson writes of how in 1979 UNESCO focused on the well-being of children. This effort culminated in the UN Decade of the Child (2001 to 2010). This launched the self-inflation movement where children’s self-esteem was to be guarded at all costs.
We have created a society in which everyone (not just children) is equal. There are no winners and losers. Everyone gets a gold star or a pat on the back for just showing up. When I was a wee lad in about Grade 5 I participated in the Canada Participaction Awards program. I took part in running, shot-putting, long jumping, high jumping and so on. We were judged on time and distance criteria and awarded points accordingly. If our cumulative score was high enough after finishing all events, we received a Gold badge to wear with pride on our jacket. Next category was Silver and after that Bronze. If our cumulative point score was not high enough for Bronze we got nothing, nada, zip, zilch. Needless to say, we all pushed ourselves to do well and be competitive. After all, that was the r’aison d’etre for the Participaction Program!
Today such a competition would not be allowed to take place for fear that some kid would get left off the awards list. We don’t have winners and losers anymore – everyone is a winner.
Sadly, as a consultant to the craft distilling movement I must report that this mentality has now infected the craft distilling industry. At the 2018 American Distilling Institute (ADI) convention and trade show that took place in Portland, Oregon, organizers created a Spirits Competition.
To ADI’s credit, the categories were generally reflective of the various styles of craft spirits being made. However, within these categories, ADI concocted a variety of useless sub-groups. For example – under the category of Malt Whisky, why is there an International Malt Whisky sub-group. Under Moonshine, why is there an International Moonshine? What is an Aged Hybrid Still Rum sub-group supposed to mean? What is an Aged Vodka sub-group supposed to mean? “No child left unhappy” seemingly is the objective. Create enough categories and sub-groups so that as many people as possible will be motivated to submit samples, thus maximizing revenues for ADI. Some quick calculations suggest that over $200,000 in revenues was generated from entry fees.
Can you imagine at the next Olympic Games if the athletes in the Decathlon event were given awards for sub-groups that included best red shoe laces, nicest curly hair, and sharpest blue eyes?
Things go farther astray when one learns that ADI awarded multiple medals in the various categories. For example, Aged Gin (Gin rested in an oak barrel for a period of time) is a hot commodity right now in the craft distilling world. I have tasted some very good Aged Gins in my travels. I see from the ADI judging results that there were 26 Bronze Medals awarded, 9 Silvers and 1 Gold. The one Gold medal I understand. This distiller garnered more than 80 points from each judge in this category. Kudos to that distiller. He has a great product and deserves his Gold medal. But 9 Silvers? 26 Bronzes? This is where common sense evaporates.
It means nothing for a distiller to tell a customer that he received a Bronze medal in Portland. The customer is thinking “Wow! This guy is good, he came in third in a big competition”. But this adoration may be mis-guided. The distiller submitted a sample of his spirit and along with 25 other distillers managed to scrape up 70 to 79 points from a panel of judges. This signifies mediocrity at best.
In keeping with the Olympics analogy, I suggest that at the next 100 meter sprint event, the organizers award Gold to the event winner, a couple Silvers to the next two athletes, and then for good measure maybe four or five Bronze medals. Yippee! Nobody left out. Everyone goes home with a piece of candy!
If this “no child left unhappy” mentality is allowed to flourish, how will the craft distilling movement flourish in a professional and respected way?
Lest it be suggested I am picking on ADI, I am not. In early 2018 the Canadian Whisky Awards doled out 22 Gold medals, 24 Silvers and 39 Bronze medals. The 2017 SIP Awards in San Francisco clearly state on their website that their judging event is based on a scale of 1 to 5 and a proprietary algorithm. To cite one of their categories – Gin, the 2017 awards comprised 13 Platinum medals, 19 Gold, 9 Silver and 6 Bronze. No child left unhappy indeed!
As a consumer traveling around visiting craft distilleries, you will start to notice more and more of these award certificates on display. To determine the true value of an award, boldly ask what category and sub-category was the award for? Ask how many other entrants got the same award in that category/sub-category? If these questions are dodged, then let the old adage apply – caveat emptor – buyer beware!
Customer Expectations and the Name of the Product
As I sit here studying for my last exam – Management Strategies for Beverages – I thought I would take a break to present to you a mini case study. I recently got a craft distilled product called Colossal Pink Gin made by Bohemian Spirits in Kimberly, BC, Canada. The back label describes it as like a brick in a silk purse, an elephant ballet. OK…now my expectations have been set. I am expecting a big, bold Gin oozing with Juniper, Citrus, and floral notes. But instead what I get is a huge mouthful of Anise (black licorice) and not much else. It only gets worse with Tonic. My customer expectations are shattered. I am now busy telling people about this product that failed me. This is something a craft distiller cannot afford. In fact, this product scarcely even qualifies as a Gin. The lesson here is a valuable one. If you want to make a product with heavy focus on an overwhelming botanical like Anise – great do it! Make it Pink too…hell…make it yellow for all I care. But, if its taste profile falls outside the normal taste boundaries for a Gin, then DO NOT call it a Gin! Call it Pink Licorice. Call it Pink Anise. Call it Pink Thunder. Call it Pink Elephant. Just give me (the customer) a heads up of what to expect so that I can formulate a buying decision and not be disappointed. As I remind people in the 5 Day Distillery Workshops – marketing is simple. It is just not easy…..
I strongly urge every craft distiller or every want-to-be craft distiller to purchase the following three books:
Strategic Marketing Management – by Wilson & Gilligan.
Building Strong Brands – by David Aaker
The New Strategic Brand Management – J.N. Kapferer
These are the books being used today at Heriot Watt University in the Marketing Department and represent the leading thought ideas. While these books are not exactly 2018 content, the models and strategies they present are nonetheless current.
Vermouth – This Ain’t from the Liquor Store…..
Next time you stop at your local Liquor store, ask the product advisor how many bottles of Vermouth they sell in a typical month. The number I assure you will be a small one. People simply don’t know what to do with a Vermouth, other than to spritz a wee bit into a Gin cocktail.
I just finished another of my wild experiments – this one to make Vermouth. I started with a quantity of Vodka. You can obviously buy your Vodka at the Liquor store. In my case, I take a slightly different approach which I shall not discuss here. I added a litany of herbs that I sourced at Herbie’s Herbs in Toronto, Canada. Look around your community and you will find a purveyor of herbs and spices. The list included the likes of Wormwood, Thistle, Mint, Angelica, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, and Gentian. I soaked the herbs in the alcohol for 20 days. I then strained the concoction through a coffee filter. The resulting dark liquid was then blended into some white Gewurtztraminer wine that I had sourced from my local U-Vin store. The ratio of herbal liquid to wine was 1 part herbal to 5 parts wine, but you can adjust that to your liking. I then added 0.8 parts simple sugar syrup for every part of the herbal liquid. Again, you can make minor adjustments to suit your taste buds. By my math, the resulting product measures about 15% alc/vol. On a nice Summer day, a generous dram of this Vermouth with an ice cube is just what the Doctor ordered as far as I am concerned.
In your travels to craft distilleries, start inquiring whether they have a Vermouth type product for sale. If not, share this post with them. Or…make your own Vermouth. Life is too short to not have a nice Vermouth on hand….for those relaxing occasions on the deck during the Summer. For recipe details, get in touch with me.
Lohin McKinnon Craft Whisky – The New Benchmark
Lohin McKinnon Craft Whisky. Remember that name. It is going to set a new benchmark for Canadian craft Whisky.
This Whisky is what happens when a brewer and a distiller (both of whom understand the science of what they are doing) start collaborating. I really cannot emphasize this point enough. The craft distilling movement in Canada has seen far too many people rush in with zero scientific knowledge. What’s more – there seems to be a reluctance to learn at a deeper level. As I stress in my recently released 3rd edition of Field to Flask, the craft movement will remain stuck in neutral until some better products are released based on a deeper grasp of the underlying science. I find it hard these days to contain my laughter when I see craft distillers adding wood cubes and burnt sticks to make their fresh-off-the-still product turn brown. This is what I bluntly refer to as piss in a bottle.
Lohin McKinnon Whisky has been aged for about 4 years (as near as my simple math tells me) and it is starting to show good signs of body, texture and subtle, elegant flavors. As I note at the outset, this product is going to set the benchmark for craft Whisky. Those that cannot aspire to this level of performance will perish into the mists of failure. And so it should be.
I am a bit disappointed to see it being released so soon because it will only get more excellent as it continues to rest in the cask. I do hope their plan is to leave the bulk of it age longer. Try it now for sure (you will be impressed), but give this product a few more years in the cask and it will be a highly sought-after prize by serious Whisky connoisseurs in Canada. I have now added this Whisky to the tasting lineup in our 5 Day Distilling Workshops
You Gotta’ Try – Amrut Malt Whisky from India
I say India……you say curry, Taj Mahal, Bombay, Bollywood….
You say India and I say wow!!! … Indian Whisky.
In our 5 day Distilling Workshops I delve deep into the chemistry that occurs in an oak barrel during ageing. I talk about the effects of temp and humidity on these chemistry processes. Now, I have tasted the science that I talk about. Amrut Indian Whisky is a blended malt (distillate made from smoked malt from UK plus distillate made from non-smoked malt from Himalayan foothills of India) aged in oak casks for a max of 4 years in the hot, humidity of India. You simply have got to try this stuff. I paid $92 in Kelowna, BC and have seen it for $150 in Calgary – so shop carefully. Add water to open up the flavors and prepare to be amazed. Enticing bits of smoke, sweetness, maltiness and even some fruitiness will tease your palate. Amrut is taking the world by storm…and now I know why. After trying this excellent creation, you may find yourself drinking it on a regular basis….
English Gin – No Thanks! …. You Gotta Try These Scottish Gins…..
There is quite a rivalry going on amongst Gin makers here in the UK. Much like the Calcutta Cup Rugby game the other day between England and Scotland where Scottish pride was evident, the Scottish are taking great pride in their Gins. I had the opportunity to sample two more creations yesterday at a quaint little pub in the Haymarket area of Edinburgh called Ryries.
The first one – I am sure you have had it – was Caorrun Gin. Straight up, room temperature, I got the juniper forward aroma which then ushered me into a nice rounded mouthfeel where I thought I could detect apple. Turns out – I was correct, Caorrun contains apple in its botanical mix.I am told that a good way to navigate Caorrun is straight up, room temperature with a slice of apple in the glass.
The second one I tried was Blackwoods. Never heard of it before. It’s claim to fame is that some of its botanicals ( meadowsweet, cowslip, wild thyme, eyebright) are foraged from the Shetland Islands. Very nice, well rounded when approached straight up at room temperature. I am told that it pairs well with some (not all) of the Fevertree tonic offerings. ch
Clearly I have more research to do when I come back to school here in Edinburgh in August. Meantime, I managed to snag the last seat for a Gin Connoisseur class at Edinburgh Gin later today. But, before I head off to that, it is time to hit the books again. The McCabe-Thiel mathematics of still column plate approximations beckons…
Glengoyne Distillery – You Have to Visit Here
So…..21 years ago I was getting set to marry my sweetheart. In fact April 5, 2018 is our 21st Anniversary. Shortly afterwards, she advised my she was heading to Glasgow, Scotland for a Rotary International Conference. When she came home she was raving about this place called Glengoyne that she had visited. Something about tasting drams of Scotch at 10am in the morning…and I was told it was a Rotary Conference she was at! Hah!!! To this day, Jeanne still talks about her visit to Glengoyne and in fact expresses a preference for only Glengoyne Scotch. So, here I am in Edinburgh at school right now ( Heriot Watt University – Brewing & Distilling). Today is my 54th Birthday and as a treat to myself, I took the train from Edinburgh to Milngavie and a bus to the front door of Glengoyne Distillery. I was met by the beautiful and charming JoAnne who would be my tour guide. When she found out I was studying at Heriot Watt, she opened up to me and shared all sorts of excellent technical information with me. Quite the opposite from the treatment I had last October at Blair Athol Distillery…but that is another story for another day.
I had a chance to blend my own Scotch using cask strength samples of various ages from various barrel types. This was called the Malt Master Tour and I highly advise it. The tour of the Distillery was top shelf all the way. Now I know why my dear wife was so impressed 21 years ago.
If your travels take you to Scotland – you just have to visit Glengoyne Distilling. Get yourself to Glasgow. From there, either take a train or a bus to the town of Milngavie (locals call it Miln-Guy). From there take bus B10 to the front door of the Distillery. Ask if JoAnne can give you the tour and as I say – give serious thought to spending some $$$$ and doing the Master Malt Tour. You will come away with a whole new appreciation for Scotch. You will also start to understand why our Canadian Whisky distilled to 95% ABV is total piss! I dare say, after a visit to Glengoyne, your Whisky sipping will take on a whole new dimension.
My goal now…..dare I say it…..is to contact the owners of this fine location and see if I can arrange for a 3-4 month work opportunity. That would be like a dream come true……