Rum – Sidestepping the Canadian Definition

In the 5 Day Workshops I assist with at Urban Distilleries in Kelowna, BC we spend a chunk of time digging into the legal definitions for the various spirit types. For example, Rum is defined as being made from sugar cane and its products (ie molasses) and aged in small wood containers (less than 700 Liters in size) for 1 year. Obviously placing any distillate in a wooden cask will cause a coloration change in the distillate. So how then is White Rum created? My answer used to be that in all likelihood the casks being used were very old and quite spent. Any trace amounts of color change were then filtered out prior to bottling. But, I have found a more elegant way and Captain Morgan White Rum (marketing tagline = finest Caribbean Rum) is an example of this lawyer-assisted elegance. Captain Morgan appears to have sidestepped the CRC section 870 definitions and leaned towards the 2005 Spirit Drinks Trade Act. This Act says that if one imports Rum distillate from a Commonwealth Caribbean nation and blends it with other Rum distillate from another Commonwealth Caribbean nation and then proofs to a drinkable strength with water, the resulting product can be called Caribbean Rum. No mention of 1 year of aging is there? And what about the White Rums ( ie Lambs) that do not bear the moniker “Caribbean” but are White nonetheless. Sure, maybe these Rums are passed through old, spent casks. But, I have found a clever way to sidestep the issue here as well. The USA Rum definition is similar to that of Canada, except nowhere in the USA definition is there mention of aging in a wooden cask. So, if I were seeking to make White Rum for sale in Canada, I would distill it in the USA and proof it to a drinkable strength. My Canadian corporate entity would then bring the product into Canada. Simple.

I find it sad that our legislation has so many loopholes that favor the large corporations. I further find it sad that we have the CRC 870 definitions and the 2005 Spirit Drinks Trade Act working at cross purposes to each other. I would be curious to see what would happen to a small micro-distiller who tried to emulate the above described tactics being used by the big corporations. I somehow doubt all would end well. It is time in Canada to clean up and rectify the definitions. As I am on record as saying – I like the USA definitions in 27 CFR Chapter 4. They are clearly stated and there is no ambiguity. This framework is a good starting point for a Canadian definition overhaul.

Do Your Due Diligence…First…

Thinking about starting a craft distillery can be chock full of emotion. Think about it – you…your own business…a gleaming Copper still…you making alcohol….

But, in my opinion, the emotion should be checked at the door. It is critical to keep your head screwed on while your fully contemplate a craft distillery.

As I pen these words, I am in Kona, Hawaii and yes the thought of a craft distillery here has got my mind racing. So, over the past couple days, I checked my emotion at the door. I screwed my head on and decided to take a trip to the local grocery store. There are some 2 million tourists that come to the Big Island every year. Surely the grocery store must be a treasure trove of valuable data, not to mention unique spirits?

But here is the reality that slapped me in the face.

Rum – surely the tourists must be drinking gallons of Rum? Maybe not. Sailor Jerry Rum (not made by a Sailor at all…but rather made by proofing down industrial Rum distillate in Edison, New Jersey) was on sale for $16 (all prices quoted herein are 750 mls), marked down from its regular $30. A Hawaiian craft distilled Rum was slashed to $11 from its regular $23. At a regular price of $23, I fail to see how the distiller is making money. Captain Morgan ($18), Don Cristal from Puerto Rico ($15),Whaler’s (made in Bardstown, Kentucky $18), Kraken ($20), Mt. Gay (Barbados $23) and Myers ($20).

Vodka – ahh yes that mixture of ethanol and water that is so highly over-rated. A craft Vodka made from pineapple slashed to $20 from its regular $26. At $26 – again after stripping out Federal Excise taxes, cost of bottles, labels, corks, boxes, materials, labor, debt payments, rent payments, profit margin for the distributor, profit for the grocery store – the poor craft distiller is sucking wind. Other Vodkas I saw were Stoli ($22), Tito’s ($22), Absolute ($26), Smirnoff ($18) New Amsterdam ($18), Grey Goose (slashed from $45 to $26). Not a pretty picture at all…

Whisky – maybe the tourists are drinking Whisky? At these prices, there should have been riots in the store as customers fought each other to get a bottle. Crown Royal (the pride of Canada $19.88), Dickel Whisky ($20), Jack Daniels ($20), Jim Beam ($17), Maker’s Mark ($34), Wild Turkey ($27). How would a craft distiller making whisky even compete at these price levels?

Gin – maybe that’s the answer? Ohhh here we go again….Bombay Dry ($23), Bombay Sapphire ($19), Sapphire East ($19), Tanqueray $33. How would a craft distiller making good Gin compete with prices at these levels?

But, then I noticed something. Beer….lots of it…lots of people buying it….and a typical 6-pak was $13-$15. Hawaii is a hot climate. People in hot climates drink beer. People might drink a mixed cocktail, but beer goes down cold and is refreshing.

Next, on my due diligence trip is to meet with the Hawaii Alcohol Commission next week. I plan to fully review with them the entire craft distilling landscape state-wide. I will post another blog next week with my findings.

Meantime, my emotion remains tucked away and my head remains screwed on.

Orris Root – The “Fixer”

Last year in London I attended a brief tasting event put on by David T. Smith on the subject of Gin. Coming away from this event, I was curiously intrigued by his remarks concerning Orris Root, which he dubbed “the fixer”. Over the past many months, I have started offering 1-day Gin Master Classes at the tail end of the 5-Day Master Distiller Workshops. I have now started experimenting with Orris Root and yes…there is something magical about this material which is the root bulb from the Iris flower, which I am sure many of you have seen (and maybe grow).

I cannot explain the science behind Orris, but it somehow marries the various botanicals together and essentially “fixes up” the Gin. I rely heavily on my dear wife’s taste palate when it comes to Gin recipes. To further test Orris, I recently did a small Gin run using our standard household Gin recipe. Except, this time I added some Orris. When I served her a sample of the Gin, she took her customary sip and immediately remarked – “there is something different about this Gin. I like it..”.

Orris is now a key ingredient in all Gins that I make – whether at home or at a Gin MasterClass.

Thank You David T. Smith.

To wrap up this blog post, I leave you with a recipe recently trialed (to great acclaim) by the participants at a recent MasterClass.

They took 500 mls of high proof alcohol from the distillery (just like the alcohol that you could easily make on your home distillation device)

They added, 27 g of Juniper, 7 g Coriander, 7 g grapefruit peel, 10 g dried lemon peel, 10 g dried Orange Peel, 2 g Lime Peel, 3 g Lavender, 4 g Ginger Root, 5 g Orris and 0.5 g hops.

They added this alcohol/botanical mixture to a small Al’Ambic pot still. They also added also 200 mls water.

They distilled low and slow over a propane burner.

They proofed the distillate to 43% (86 proof).

We all Enjoyed it !

A Visit to Eau Claire Distillery

This past week-end on my way home from my latest Kelowna workshop, I detoured through Turner Valley, Alberta where I stopped at Eau Claire Distillery. Some 25 years ago I used to live Okotoks, Alberta when it was a small town of 6000 people. I can recall back then taking the occasional drive to nearby Turner Valley and Black Diamond which really were nothing. Fast forward to today and these former dying villages have been “gentrified” and catapulted into the 21st century. Would have, could have, should have bought some real estate in these tiny villages back then…..

Eau Claire Distillery has set up shop in what used to be the old movie theatre. And a masterful job they have done, as the following pictures show.

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Eau Claire has also done a masterful marketing job of playing on the entire field to flask theme. In our 5-Day Workshops, I often use Eau Claire as an example of how to properly play on a theme. From their heavy horses to the interior western decor, Eau Claire scores top marks in the marketing category.

Eau Claire has also recently scored top marks on one of its products – Equinox. I use Equinox in the 5-day Workshops to illustrate what can be done with a grain spirit. Far too many craft distillers are releasing their White Whisky’s and Grain Spirits in plain format hoping and expecting that the consumer will start buying them in large quantity. I dare say, many of these craft distillers are probably less than happy with sales levels of their White products. With Equinox, Eau Claire has opted to macerate some prickly pear cactus and some citrus in its White spirit. Wow! With a bit of ice, Equinox is a true pleasure to sip. The prickly pear flavors keep your taste buds calling more more..more..more…

If in the area south of Calgary, a trip to Eau Claire should be top of your list. Just remember – take your time getting there. I was in a bit of a hurry and I ended up stopping along the way to make a donation to the local RCMP. Something about going 130 kms/hr in a 100 km/hr zone. My contention that I was in a hurry to get to Eau claire somehow did not earn me any sympathy from the officer…..

Cheers!!

The Perils of Using Grain from the Farm-gate

In our 5 Day Distillery Workshops we talk about the possibilities of going to the farm and sourcing different types of grains for use at a craft distillery. We caution to physically go to the farm to inspect the grain for evidence of molds or staining on the grain. Evidence of such should be reason not to purchase that particular grain as staining can be a result of fusarium molds which will be toxic to yeast during the fermentation.

I just had the week-end from hell and I am writing to share that experience.

I am assisting a small craft distillery start-up in Saskatchewan to formulate their recipes for their Moonshine. They are farmers and as such have ample access to plenty of grain. They recently provided me with 2 pails of grain ( winter wheat) and asked if I would mash it up, ferment it off and distill it into alcohol that was at or near 80%/volume. I agreed to do so.

As I was grinding the grain I could not help but notice the amount of weeds, seeds and chaff in the pails of grain. I thought to myself – this might make for some grassy type flavors, but for the purposes of this basic exercise I reckoned all would be fine.

I completed the mash, got a final Brix reading of 20 and was quite happy with the sweet goodness as I tasted the mash. I pitched my yeast and the ferment got off to a roaring start.

But, 3 days later, my ever observant wife ( who is now keenly aware of what a ferment should look like) alerted me that the ferments had stopped bubbling. I thought this rather odd, but decided to leave the fermenters alone for a few more days.

I have to sieve my fermented grain mashes though mesh so as not to introduce too many solids into my electrically heated Hillbilly still. As I was sieving the mash, I thought I could detect some occasional solvent odors. Nah!! …must be my imagination I thought to myself.

I loaded the still, turned on the heat and waited for the pot to warm up.

Soon enough, the temperature of my column started to heat up and when I peered into the windows at each plate all I could see was a dense fog. How weird is that, I mumbled to myself…

Eventually the distillate started coming off the still and yikes !!! it was the color of a weak cup of tea. How is that possible, I thought?

Well, the brown liquid kept coming along with a solvent like aroma. When I tasted the distillate, I could detect a faint whisky flavor, but the solvent was predominant and my tongue tingled. I also noted the temperature at the dephlegmator to be about 68C, well below the boiling point of alcohol.

Here is what happened. Evidently, during the mashing process, the artificial enzymes broke down the weeds, seeds and chaff in the grain. The yeast in the fermenter pails started eating this foreign debris along with the sugars from the grains. Yes, alcohol (ethanol) was made, but the Embden Meyer Parnhas Glycolytic Pathway somehow also produced an alcoholic solvent type molecule too. This solvent was what halted the ferment after 3 days. The distillation process simply concentrated the solvent and the brown color emerging from the still was the result of this harsh solvent stripping buildup off the interior of the still column. In fact, the solvent molecules when combined with the alcohol molecules made a mutation that had a boiling point of 68C – well below the boiling point of ethanol.

When I removed the column from the pot, I rubbed a paper towel on the inside of the column and the paper towel turned black from the copper-sulfide type residue that had accumulated in the column.

The rest of the day was spent dismantling the entire still and all it parts. I heated up some water to 60 C and added citric acid. I scrubbed all the still parts in the citric, rinsed them and re-assembled the still.

So, lesson learned. While there are many farmers out there growing very exciting varietals of grain, DO NOT buy grain from the farm-gate unless it has first been passed through a state-of-the-art cleaning plant. There should be ZERO evidence of weeds, seeds or chaff in your grain.

My client has been advised of this bizarre situation and is now busy obtaining some more grain, this time from a seed provider whose seed is certified by the Canadian Food Inspection Agency to be free of foreign debris.

The following photos illustrate the color of the distillate, the dense fog in the column windows and the grime on the paper towels.

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What’s Steeping at Legend ?

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Spent some time this week at Legend Distilling on Naramata Road, just up the hill from Penticton, BC. The folks at Legend are gaining quite a reputation for their unique infusions and steeped concoctions. I sampled some of their newest creation – Manitou. There is quite a legendary story behind this product which in itself is intriguing. But, this spirit has been made by steeping orange peels and sumac berries in alcohol. The steeped batch is then slightly sweetened and proofed down and bottled.

Sumac shrubs grow in the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia and once a year the shrubs yield a crop of red berries. Visit some health websites on-line and you will soon learn that sumac berry hosts many health benefits. In fact, the sumac berry has been known to mankind since 1000 AD.

My initial reaction upon tasting this creation was – wow! this stuff is dangerous. I could easily lose myself and sip my way through a bottle of Manitou in an afternoon.

Well done you guys. Keep up the great work. Look forward to more unique creations…

What’s New at Dub’h Glas Distilling?

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Spent the morning at Dub’h Glas Distilling in Oliver, BC today. In case you have not heard of this small craft distillery, it is gaining a lot of popularity for its Noteworthy Gin.

I was very pleased today to learn that Dub’h Glas is now out with a new product. But – please note well – this is a product that is best appreciated if and only if you have a somewhat educated taste palate. There are plenty of craft distillers out there who have launched various versions of White Dawg, White Lightnin’, White Mongrel and what have you. These various products are simply their standard whisky type distillate that has never seen the inside of an oak cask.

Dub’h Glas has upped the game significantly with the creation of its Virgin Whisky. Virgin, so named because it is newly created, virgin whisky that has not seen an oak cask. I was able to piece together the subtle hints given to me by Owner/Distiller Stevely. What he seems to be doing is carefully regulating the fermentation temperature during the early stages of the ferment. He is also using a yeast that is not the standard type yeast many craft distillers are using.

The net result – would you believe fruity notes? At 50% alc, this product with its wonderful fruity notes was a real pleasure to sip. Many white whiskies are screaming out for something to be mixed into them. Virgin Whisky from Dub’h Glas is screaming – leave me alone…don’t mix me….sip me straight up and appreciate all that I have to offer.

If you are in or near Oliver, BC – take a swing by Dub’h Glas Distilling and indulge yourself with a bottle of Virgin Whisky. While you are there, ask very politely and Stevely might also let you taste his Navy Strength version of his Noteworthy Gin. This is another blog post for another time….if he chooses to release this Gin to the world…..

Stand Together or Fall Together

The craft distilling movement is still very much in its infancy. The consumer still has not whole-heartedly adopted craft distilled spirits.

If the craft distilling movement is to succeed, the quality of craft products will have to be top shelf. I hear many people comparing the craft distilling movement to the craft beer movement that got underway in earnest in the late 1980s. I hear the argument that the craft distilling movement has nowhere to go but up.

I do not agree entirely.

In the late 1980s, beer consisted of offerings from Molsons, LaBatts, Bud, Coors and the like. The craft beers that burst onto the scene were unique, unusual and tasted way different than anything the consumer was used to. Before long, the consumer adopted these unique offerings and became quite savvy. Soon enough consumers were asking how many IBU bittering units were in their IPAs. Soon enough consumers were evaluating the taste profiles of their stouts and porters much like a wine afficionado would dissect a fine wine.

Today, when one looks across the distilled spirits spectrum, there is nothing necessarily wrong with Alberta Premium Rye Whisky, nothing terribly horrible about Grey Goose Vodka and nothing amiss with all those Bourbons and Single Malt Scotches. If the craft movement is to succeed, craft distillers will have to create products that are as good as the commercial products on offer today and certainly more unique.

This leaves zero margin for poor tasting products from the craft scene.

I recently tasted a product called French Laundry Vodka from Sperling Distillery in Regina, Saskatchewan. To be perfectly blunt, I would be comfortable using this product to clean the carburetor on my lawn mower engine. I also sampled their Ole Jed’s Moonshine. I am not sure who Ole Jed was, but if this was his recipe, he is probably blind and impotent by now. This Moonshine was horrid! At one of my recent Workshops held at Urban Distilleries in Kelowna, BC I offered the class samples of Old Order Vodka from Old Order Distilling in Penticton, BC. Never have I seen an entire class of people all recoil in horror at the same instant. This Vodka was paint stripper to be quite blunt. This product should not even be on the store shelves it is that bad. Strangely enough, both Old Order Distilling and Sperling Distillery are running stills made by German firm Mueller. I am not sure if there is something wrong with Mueller stills or if the Mueller technical rep failed to properly train the distillers. I have extended an offer to both distilleries to work with them through a couple distillation runs to try to identify the problems. To date, neither have responded.

I have come under fire for posting these blunt posts in which I single out products based on their poor quality. But – I stand by what I do. If the craft movement is to grow strong legs and survive, there can be zero margin for poor quality. All it will take to damage the craft movement is a few distillers who insist on making bad product. Rumors will abound. The fragile consumer will revert back to his ‘go-to’ commercial brands that he is comfortable with.

We either stand together….or we fail together….

Marketing Strategies – Your USP

In the last blog I posted, I pointed out the necessity of taking time to craft your personal story – a story that would resonate with consumers.

Now imagine you are at a social event and someone you barely know asks you – “what is it that you do?”

Can you tell them in 30 seconds or less? More importantly, can you tell them in such a way that your words open the door to more questions and perhaps even a full blown conversation?

At Prohibition University, I tell people that ” I work with people who are building craft distilling businesses to help ensure their success”. This more than often opens the door to a question – “how do you do that?”. I then ease into a discussion of the 5-day hands on workshops and the consulting services I offer.

This 30 second descriptor is called your Unique Selling Proposition (or USP for short).

Even if you are still in the planning phase of your craft distillery, I strongly urge you to start crafting your USP. It will not be easy. You may have to seek the help of friends, family and close associates.

Consider the following:

The marketplace has many Tequila varieties available. One that managed to carve out some market share for itself in the USA was Arrogante Tequila. Their USP was: We make our Tequila using only traditional stone ovens and not stainless steel autoclaves to cook the agave plant. Now, that’s unique. This is a USP that would quickly lend itself to a conversation with another person.

Consider the following USP from Kings County Distillery in New York State: We are the first distillery to open in New York since Prohibition. We make whisky using traditional copperĀ stills fabricated in Scotland, wooden fermenters built locally by Isseks Brothers and corn and barley grown onsite. We are a model of sustainable and traditional whiskey production.
Again, a conversation starter with its focus on tradition, local and sustainable.

Lastly, consider this one from a Canadian Vodka maker who uses neutral grain spirits from an ethanol factory and dilutes that alcohol down to 40% alc using water: We produce Vodka from Ontario sweet corn harvested at the peak of its sugar content and we use water freshly harvested from the purest source possible: high Arctic icebergs from glaciers over 10,000 years old. Catchy isn’t it? Such is the power of a Unique Selling Proposition.

At Prohibition University, we are here to work with you. If you need help to craft your USP or if you just need a set of ears to listen to your USP- give us a call. We would love to hear from you.

Marketing Strategies – Your Story

The craft distilling movement is growing in leaps and bounds across North America. While at first glance, this appears to be a good thing there is also a hidden pitfall or two in such rapid growth. Many seasoned veterans of the craft beverage movement are cautioning that they have seen this type of growth profile before in craft beer in the 1990s. These same veterans are also saying they have seen this type of growth profile before – with the Internet in the 1990s when everyone was beating their drum about their latest dotcom setup.

At Prohibition University we devote one full day of our 5-day Distillery Workshops to a thorough discussion of Marketing. I find it troubling how this Marketing session causes such pain to so many people. I have even had class participants suggest to me that they see no need to market. They will build a craft distillery and people will come to their door. I have had class participants who simply just do not take part in class exercises or take-home assignments. I can see why the industry veterans are issuing their words of caution.

If you are seriously thinking about launching a venture into the realm of craft distilling, I urge you to first sit down with a pencil and paper and write out your story. Who are you? What is driving you to get involved with craft distilled spirits? What type of spirit would you like to produce? How will it be different? Reality says that the marketplace does not need another spirit. Diageo, Smirnoff, Bacardi, Grupo Campari and the lot are quite capable of making enough alcoholic beverage to satisfy our needs and wants. If you cannot set down on paper your compelling story that crisply says who you are and why you are making a unique spirit and why it is different, then I hate to tell you – but maybe the craft distilling movement is not for you. If you are simply seeking to get involved in craft distilling because it is the latest greatest thing (just like the dotcoms were…), then please, please don’t go there.

Consumers buy on emotion and later justify that purchase with logic. Your compelling story is what will stir their emotion. With emotional jets stirred, the consumer will follow you and your lineup of spirits with devotion. Consider the following examples:

Heritage Distilling, Gig Harbor Washington: Have a look at the website for this craft distiller sometime. Owners Justin and Jennifer vividly talk about who they are and how their growing-up experiences shaped who they are today. This is the type of story that people like to follow. Small wonder then that Heritage Distilling is enjoying such good success.

Shelter Point Distilling, Vancouver Island, Canada: Have a look at the website for this craft distiller and in particular, look at the short video that tells their story. This is a touching tale of getting in touch with nature, growing barley and using it to craft a distilled spirit. This is what the consumer can emotionally connect with.

At Prohibition University, we stand ready to work with you to help you finesse your marketing story and get your craft distilling venture off to a roaring start. Give us a call. We would love to hear from you.