Back in March at one of my 5 day Distilling Workshops, I introduced the class to Sauvage Gin from Cirka Distilling in Montreal. I actually bought the bottle at a private liquor store in Calgary (Craft Cellars – 32 Ave NE).

Look up the word “sauvage” and you will find that its meaning extends to connotations of wild, untamed and forest. Definitely an appropriate name for a Gin. The response from the class was one of muted enthusiasm. They felt is was good but not bursting with flavor.

One of my favorite food themes to cook is Indian curry. Not all curry is hot and spicy. There are various aromatic dishes that can be found in Indian cookbooks. One dish that I do often is curry fish. The emphasis in this dish is on fresh ground coriander, cumin, ginger, garlic, tamarind, coconut and a small bit of chili pepper. The net result is a flavorful, aromatic presentation.

I have taken to drinking Gin martinis with aromatic type Indian dishes. Last evening I did the fish dish again served with a dry Gin martini made from Cirka Gin. Wow!!! This Gin is a sleeper! When the martini hit my taste buds that were saturated with the flavors from the fish dish, the Gin came alive! Flavors of juniper, coriander, and angelica exploded on my palate. So much so that I quickly poured myself another martini.

If aromatic Indian type dishes are something you fancy, and if you like dry Gin martinis….I urge you to find a bottle of Cirka Gin. To the team at Cirka Distilling – this is a well done Gin. Congratulations on a stellar product.

I am not sure if this bottle of Gin will ever see my next Workshop. I fear that the bottle will be emptied quite soon…..

Today I did a blind tasting with members of the 6-Day distillery Workshop. I served up samples of the Whiskies pictured above taking care to have diluted each sample to 30% alcohol for proper evaluation. The Whisky on left is the very popular Alberta Premium made by Beam Suntory subsidiary Alberta Distillers. The middle product is a recent entrant onto store shelves. The 6 year old distillate is purchased from Collingwood Distillers in Ontario and given a further year of ageing in Kelowna, BC in ex-bourbon casks, ex-red wine casks and Hungarian oak casks. The product on right is a small batch whisky made by Shelter Point Distilling in Campbell River, BC on traditional pot stills. The class comments were uniform. The Shelter Point product was deemed to have the best mouth-feel and finish. The Bearface exhibited good oak character, but was lacking in body and texture. The Alberta Premium was the least appreciated of all with comments indicating a certain harshness on the palate. I later pointed out to the class that the Shelter Point product is a pot distilled whisky – hence its good mouth-feel. The other two products are column distilled which removes far too much flavor from the distillate. This tasting exercise supports what I have been long saying – if you are going to make a Whisky, then make it on a pot still using the double pot distillation technique.

In the most recent Gin Experience Class, we started our exploration with a blind tasting of four London Dry Gins. I was expecting them to be all generally the same. But, surprise, surprise! The class by a wide margin selected Beefeater as its favorite of the four in terms of aroma, texture and mouthfeel. We went on to compare Beefeater to some craft distilled “contemporary Gins” and found that Beefeater stood out in a positive way. I for one am now set to re-visit the entire subject area of British Gins. My prevailing attitude towards British Gins has been changed by this Beefeater experience. Next time you are at your favorite watering hole, ask for a sample of Beefeater and a sample of one other London Dry Gin. Eyeball the level of the liquid in the respective glasses and add half again as much water to each to effectively reduce the % alcohol to 30% in each of your samples. Assess the aroma, mouthfeel and finish of Beefeater and you will see what I am talking about.

I have now made the acquaintance of a big, complex Scotch which I have been looking to acquire for some time now. As you can tell by the level of the liquid in this photo, I have now had a couple drams. I can pick out subtle notes of ripe stone fruit. I can pick out a pleasant spiciness on the finish along with a wee touch of what reminds me of green apple (wood tannins). All in all, this is a complex dram and maybe that is why it bears the moniker “the beast of Dufftown”. I definitely recommend getting yourself a bottle (if you can find it). I got mine at the BC Gov’t Signature Liquor Store for $81.

Next time you are at your local liquor store you may notice a new product – Bearface Canadian Whisky.

I first saw this stuff back at Christmas in an Ontario LCBO Store.

I have since been busy piecing together the puzzle. Here is what I have found:

This Whisky was actually made on the shores of Georgian Bay. Hence, I have to assume it was made by Collingwood Distillers in Ontario, who are owned by Brown Foreman, the parent company of the Jack Daniels brand. Collingwood makes its base Whisky from western Canadian barley according to the book Whisky – The Portable Expert by D. DeKergommeaux.

After 6 years of ageing, a quantity of this Collingwood Whisky was then sold to Mission Hill Vineyards in Kelowna, BC. The six year old distillate seems to have been then divided into three portions. One portion was added to ex-bourbon barrels, one portion to ex-red wine casks and one portion to Hungarian Oak casks. After one more year of ageing, these barrelled portions were blended together, proofed to 40% and bottled as a 7 year old product.

The bottle bears the scratch markings of a bear and even the label has a wee tear in it for added authenticity. In the world of Canadian Whisky – don’t forget that marketing is everything. And what is more authentic in Canada than using a bear as your marketing symbol?

I have now had a chance to evaluate this product. I followed my usual protocol of first diluting my dram to 30% so I could evaluate the aroma. I noted slight evidence of pears and fruit which would be the ethyl acetate
molecules in the liquid acting on my olfactory senses.

Next I added more water to take the dilution to 20% where I turned focus to the mouthfeel and structure. This is where disappointment set in. You see, Canadian Whisky is largely made on column stills which by their very
design strip out much of the flavor from the distillate. Contrast this to Scotch or Irish Whisky where pot stills are used to retain body and flavor.

Bearface in my opinion lacks body, backbone and texture. I will admit though that it is a smooth dram and on the otherwise long finish I could detect a slight bit of what I thought was red wine (from the ex-wine casks) and a bit of spice (possibly from the Hungarian oak casks or possibly from any rye grain used to make the Whisky).

I immediately followed up this taste test with a dram of no age statement Glenlivet Scotch where I was immediately reminded (and refreshingly so…) what body, texture and backbone feel like on the palate.

If I had to assign a numerical score to Bearface, I would rate it only 80 out of 100. I have no doubt that you will soon see the so-called experts release their glowing descriptions and high numerical ratings of Bearface describing how they can taste buttterscotch candies, fresh mown hay and Unicorn tears. That is entertainment fodder for the masses. Don’t be fooled.

On a related note, this experience speaks to what I have been long saying in the 5 Day Distillery Workshops. And that message is – forget trying to make Whisky on a column still. The Canadian market is drowning in Whisky made on column stills where the flavor and character has been stripped away. Craft distillers who have been unwittingly sold a column still, are only adding to the over-supply problem. If craft distillers want to do something unique, they ought to be using the double pot distillation process as is custom in Scotland and Ireland. If you are a craft distiller reading this post and if you are using the pot distillation process, then I wholeheartedly salute you! Consumers in Canada have a long standing habit of mixing their Whisky with cola or ginger ale. If that is your wont,then Bearface is something you can buy. But if you want a dram that you can sip after adding only a tiny bit of water, then there are better products on the shelf to look at.

If a person stopped you on the street and asked you to name the 3 nations in the world that make the best Whisky, what would you answer?

I would answer, Japan, Scotland and India. There are two notable Whisky brands from India – Paul John and Amrut. Both are top shelf excellent, yet both are distinctly different. The Paul John is peated, smoky and bold. Just the way I like my Whisky. In your travels, if you see Paul John, get a bottle. You will enjoy it. Add a bit of water to your dram to open up the Whisky and release all it has to offer.

In your travels, if you ever see Nikka Gin, get yourself a bottle. If you are a whisky afficionado you already know the reputation that Japanese Whisky has. I was not surprised then to taste that that same level of craftsmanship has been applied to Gin. The citrus flavor in this Gin derives from the use of Yuzu, Kabosu and Amanatsu citrus fruit. Apple is used to lend some body and mouthfeel and Sansho Pepper is used to give a nice finish. Expensive? At $78 for a 750 ml bottle, I would argue that yes, it is expensive. But it is a product that you do not drink everyday. I can take a dram of this Gin and savor it for a long while as I nose its beautiful aroma and gently let the citrus-laden droplets tease my taste-buds.

In her book Generation Y and the New Work Ethic, thought-leader Jeanne Martinson writes of how in 1979 UNESCO focused on the well-being of children. This effort culminated in the UN Decade of the Child (2001 to 2010). This launched the self-inflation movement where children’s self-esteem was to be guarded at all costs.

We have created a society in which everyone (not just children) is equal. There are no winners and losers. Everyone gets a gold star or a pat on the back for just showing up. When I was a wee lad in about Grade 5 I participated in the Canada Participaction Awards program. I took part in running, shot-putting, long jumping, high jumping and so on. We were judged on time and distance criteria and awarded points accordingly. If our cumulative score was high enough after finishing all events, we received a Gold badge to wear with pride on our jacket. Next category was Silver and after that Bronze. If our cumulative point score was not high enough for Bronze we got nothing, nada, zip, zilch. Needless to say, we all pushed ourselves to do well and be competitive. After all, that was the r’aison d’etre for the Participaction Program!

Today such a competition would not be allowed to take place for fear that some kid would get left off the awards list. We don’t have winners and losers anymore – everyone is a winner.

Sadly, as a consultant to the craft distilling movement I must report that this mentality has now infected the craft distilling industry. At the 2018 American Distilling Institute (ADI) convention and trade show that took place in Portland, Oregon, organizers created a Spirits Competition.

To ADI’s credit, the categories were generally reflective of the various styles of craft spirits being made. However, within these categories, ADI concocted a variety of useless sub-groups. For example – under the category of Malt Whisky, why is there an International Malt Whisky sub-group. Under Moonshine, why is there an International Moonshine? What is an Aged Hybrid Still Rum sub-group supposed to mean? What is an Aged Vodka sub-group supposed to mean? “No child left unhappy” seemingly is the objective. Create enough categories and sub-groups so that as many people as possible will be motivated to submit samples, thus maximizing revenues for ADI. Some quick calculations suggest that over $200,000 in revenues was generated from entry fees.

Can you imagine at the next Olympic Games if the athletes in the Decathlon event were given awards for sub-groups that included best red shoe laces, nicest curly hair, and sharpest blue eyes?

Things go farther astray when one learns that ADI awarded multiple medals in the various categories. For example, Aged Gin (Gin rested in an oak barrel for a period of time) is a hot commodity right now in the craft distilling world. I have tasted some very good Aged Gins in my travels. I see from the ADI judging results that there were 26 Bronze Medals awarded, 9 Silvers and 1 Gold. The one Gold medal I understand. This distiller garnered more than 80 points from each judge in this category. Kudos to that distiller. He has a great product and deserves his Gold medal. But 9 Silvers? 26 Bronzes? This is where common sense evaporates.

It means nothing for a distiller to tell a customer that he received a Bronze medal in Portland. The customer is thinking “Wow! This guy is good, he came in third in a big competition”. But this adoration may be mis-guided. The distiller submitted a sample of his spirit and along with 25 other distillers managed to scrape up 70 to 79 points from a panel of judges. This signifies mediocrity at best.

In keeping with the Olympics analogy, I suggest that at the next 100 meter sprint event, the organizers award Gold to the event winner, a couple Silvers to the next two athletes, and then for good measure maybe four or five Bronze medals. Yippee! Nobody left out. Everyone goes home with a piece of candy!

If this “no child left unhappy” mentality is allowed to flourish, how will the craft distilling movement flourish in a professional and respected way?

Lest it be suggested I am picking on ADI, I am not. In early 2018 the Canadian Whisky Awards doled out 22 Gold medals, 24 Silvers and 39 Bronze medals. The 2017 SIP Awards in San Francisco clearly state on their website that their judging event is based on a scale of 1 to 5 and a proprietary algorithm. To cite one of their categories – Gin, the 2017 awards comprised 13 Platinum medals, 19 Gold, 9 Silver and 6 Bronze. No child left unhappy indeed!

As a consumer traveling around visiting craft distilleries, you will start to notice more and more of these award certificates on display. To determine the true value of an award, boldly ask what category and sub-category was the award for? Ask how many other entrants got the same award in that category/sub-category? If these questions are dodged, then let the old adage apply – caveat emptor – buyer beware!

As I sit here studying for my last exam – Management Strategies for Beverages – I thought I would take a break to present to you a mini case study. I recently got a craft distilled product called Colossal Pink Gin made by Bohemian Spirits in Kimberly, BC, Canada. The back label describes it as like a brick in a silk purse, an elephant ballet. OK…now my expectations have been set. I am expecting a big, bold Gin oozing with Juniper, Citrus, and floral notes. But instead what I get is a huge mouthful of Anise (black licorice) and not much else. It only gets worse with Tonic. My customer expectations are shattered. I am now busy telling people about this product that failed me. This is something a craft distiller cannot afford. In fact, this product scarcely even qualifies as a Gin. The lesson here is a valuable one. If you want to make a product with heavy focus on an overwhelming botanical like Anise – great do it! Make it Pink too…hell…make it yellow for all I care. But, if its taste profile falls outside the normal taste boundaries for a Gin, then DO NOT call it a Gin! Call it Pink Licorice. Call it Pink Anise. Call it Pink Thunder. Call it Pink Elephant. Just give me (the customer) a heads up of what to expect so that I can formulate a buying decision and not be disappointed. As I remind people in the 5 Day Distillery Workshops – marketing is simple. It is just not easy…..

I strongly urge every craft distiller or every want-to-be craft distiller to purchase the following three books:

Strategic Marketing Management – by Wilson & Gilligan.

Building Strong Brands – by David Aaker

The New Strategic Brand Management – J.N. Kapferer

These are the books being used today at Heriot Watt University in the Marketing Department and represent the leading thought ideas. While these books are not exactly 2018 content, the models and strategies they present are nonetheless current.

Finally….I get the water thing figured out thanks to my German brewing books I am using in my M.Sc. studies. Gotta love that German know-how….Here is what you do……. from your water report, take the Alkalinity value, the Calcium value and the Magnesium value. Start by calculating your Effective Hardness which is Calcium (ppm) / 1.4. Next, take Mg / 1.7. Add these 2 figures to get Effective Hardness. Subtract the Effective Hardness from Alkalinity to get Residual Alkalinity (RA). A nicely balanced water will have RA of about 40-50. If your RA is above that, you run the risk of making a distilled spirit where the taste is blaaaah and un-balanced. Let’s take some actual values from a real situation at a craft distillery in the south part of the Okanagan in BC (name withheld for privacy). The local water has Ca of 18 ppm, Mg 34 and Alkalinity 238 ppm. So, 238 minus [(18/1.4) + (34/1.7)] = 205. This water is not exactly the most balanced and could very easily interfere with flavor balance on a distilled product. Plus, the Calcium to way to low for making sure the yeast can function. This distillery (last time I checked) was adding Gypsum to up their Calcium to 100 ppm. At 100 ppm, the new RA becomes 238 – [(100/1.4) + (34/1.7)] = 146. Better, but still not balanced. What this distillery can do (could do?…should do ??) is a novel approach that involves adding a 25 kg bag of Chocolate Malt to every mash. The acidity of the Chocolate Malt grains will be offset by the RA (residual alkalinity) and their distiller will likely notice a significant improvement in distillate flavor and an improvement in taste complexity. And, of course, their distiller will be adding acid to reduce the high pH of his water. There are 2 approaches for this – (1) add actual acid or (2) add a couple pails of the leftover liquid from a distillation run to his next mash. This leftover stillage is highly acidic. This method is what the Kentucky Bourbon makers call the Sour Mash method.