The Importance of Sunlight

During a recent craft distillery start-up in southern B.C., I had one of those ah-hah! moments. I realized that events in our atmosphere can negatively affect distillers (and brewer’s too).

At issue is forest fires. Each summer, B.C. is over-run with forest fires that release massive amounts of smoke into the atmosphere. The smoke makes its way into the troposphere portion of our atmosphere. The layer of smoke reduces the amount of solar energy that passes towards the ground.

Plants, such as cereal grains, grow by way of a process called photosynthesis. The leaf structure on a cereal grain plant absorbs CO2 and the plant structure takes up moisture through its root system.

Sunlight hits the leaf structure and the photons of solar energy make their way into the thylakoid layer of the leaf. The H2O moisture is oxidized (loses electrons) into O2. The CO2 is reduced (gains electrons) and becomes glucose (C6H12O6). The glucose units link together to form chains of starch which comes to reside in the endosperm cell structure of the kernels of grain.

A distiller will expose these grains to heat and to proteolytic enzymes to break the starch into smaller glucosyl residues. Yeast will assimilate these residues and generate alcohol type molecules.

But, what if the amount of sunlight impacting the plant is reduced?

If it is, the photosynthesis process will be compromised and the amount of starch in the grain kernel will be reduced. A distiller trying to use these grains will experience a reduced amount of alcohol yield.

If the distiller is required by law to use B.C. grown grains (as B.C. craft distillers are….) the economics of the distillery operation will be challenged. About the only alternative will be to incorporate some more expensive malted grain into the recipe mix. Malted grain in B.C. comes from the Rahr Malting/BSG facility in Armstrong, B.C. This facility sources much of its grain from neighboring Alberta, but because the grain is malted in B.C. the liquor authorities regard it as being of B.C. origin. This raises another issue – 2021 was a dismal year for grain growers in Alberta thanks to drought and hail. There is a shortage of malted grains. Commodity shortages invariably lead to price increases. Add to this argument the grain price increases that have come about because of the Ukraine situation and one can easily see more expensive craft beer and more expensive craft spirits on the horizon.

Sunlight is something we take for granted. But our climate is changing. Annual moisture accumulations are not what they used to be. Smoke from resulting fires is affecting the amount of sunlight reaching the ground, This is creating a clear and present obstacle to the ability of cereal grain plants in B.C. to generate adequate amounts of starch. Wow! Who would have ever thought that such a situation would develop?

The Contractor and the Equipment Maker….

In late April, 2022 I assisted with the start-up of a new craft distillery in southern BC. When I arrived on site, I was shocked at what I saw.

If you are planning to launch a craft distillery, remember that all electricians are NOT equal. All plumbers are NOT equal. Trades-people have areas of focus, such as residential building construction. Asking an electrician to take a break from installing electrical receptacles in a new-build house to come and install temperature controllers to control the temperature on a fermenter tank is a big ask. You have now taken that trades-person out of their comfort zone. Asking a plumber to take a break from installing a toilet and a shower in a new-build house to come and hook up the water lines to your still condenser is a big ask. Asking that person to help design and install a glycol cooling system is an even bigger ask. You are taking that person out of their comfort zone. They have no idea how a distillery operates. They have no idea how a still condenser works. They have no idea how a glycol system should function in a distillery setting.

Maybe it is my imagination, but somehow I doubt it. I am seeing too much evidence that equipment makers simply don’t give a rat’s ass anymore. Maybe the COVID pandemic has changed the attitude of equipment makers? CO2 relief valves that do not allow the CO2 pressure to release from a fermenter tank was one issue I faced. Analog thermometers that did not properly insert into tank thermo-wells (thus giving grossly inaccurate temperature readings) was another issue. Temperature sensors that did not fit into glycol inlets/outlets on tanks (more inaccuracies) was another issue.

As part of planning your distillery project, take time to travel to other craft distilleries. Find out who they used for plumbing, piping, and electrical installations. I continue to see far too many craft start-ups focus on the still. What escapes people is the importance of all the things that come before the still. If you cannot accurately make a mash and ferment it because of poor and faulty temperature control or CO2 pressure control, then it does not matter what type of still you have.

Also, remember that all of the bits and pieces that come before the still will cost money. Boilers and associated piping, steam traps, and condensate return lines do not come cheap. Mash tanks and fermenter tanks that are properly made do not come cheap. Glycol cooling systems do not come cheap. Mash transfer pumps and hoses do not come cheap. Figure out what these costs will be before you start looking at stills. After all, a still is just a pot that heats liquid so as to create fractional distillation.

Before deciding on a still, it is further imperative that you travel around to not only other craft distilleries, but also to places like Kentucky, Ireland, and Scotland. Decide what taste profile you want for your whisky distillate. If you want the typical Scottish or Irish taste profile, then buying a still with large columns and plates will serve you no purpose. If it is a rich, robust, flavorful Gin you seek, then buying a still with a Gin basket will not help you in any way.

Starting a craft distillery is not easy. Much thought is required. Failure to think will be costly and very likely financially fatal. Failure to engage proper contractors will likewise be another nail in the proverbial coffin.

Common Sense….or Lack Thereof

In my travels to Scotland from 2017 to 2019 for my M.Sc. studies I noticed a common theme. The academic professors (wonderful people, love them all!!) had little if any real world experience. They had all variously worked in industry for a small handful of years until they realized they were smart enough that the day-to-day tasks of working in a brewery were boring. So, they made an exit and headed for the hallowed halls of academia.

The other thing I noted was none of these people were engaged in some back-yard distilling activity on week-ends. None seemed to talk about brewing beer in their kitchen on weekends.

These observations were highlighted recently when I was alerted to the notion of using field peas to make alcohol. An entire paper had been written in 2019 and published in an environmental type journal.

When I read this paper, I quickly realized that the paper was conjecture. No actual alcohol from peas had been made.

At issue is the fact that peas are classed as legumes. There are tiny hairs on the root system of the pea plant. These hairs interact with the air that penetrates the first few inches of the soil in the farm field. The net product of this interaction is Nitrogen being added to the soil. Legumes are thus referred to as “Nitrogen fixers”. The benefit of this is if a farmer grows peas in season 1, by virtue of the Nitrogen added to the soil, the farmer will have to add a reduced amount of fertilizer to the soil in season 2. This is favorable for the environment because the Haber Bosch process for ammonia fertilizer manufacture is not exactly eco-friendly.

The 2019 paper argued that growing peas will be eco-friendly, the alcohol could be used for making Gin, farmers will benefit economically, blah…blah…blah.

But, here is what most people don’t know. Peas are very much subject to blights and mildews. If a pea crop becomes infected, the bacterial spores can remain in the soil for several years. Subsequent crops planted in the field will be negatively affected. Hence, a farmer faced with an infected pea crop will resort to spraying the field with a harsh chemical like 2-4-D. This is some nasty shit! We are talking scorched earth policy. Bacterial spores and any living microbes will be killed dead by the 2-4-D. Any surface run-off after a rainstorm will carry residual 2-4-D into the surrounding environment. Birds and animals will be at risk.

Looking closer at the notion of legume alcohol, it is important to remember that legumes have less carbohydrate than cereal grains. A way less! Moreover, the alcohol from legumes will have a unique taste profile. Consider my experience with lentils – a legume plant. In 2019 I made some lentil-barley distillate (50/50 grain mash bill). I barrel aged the distillate in a small oak barrel for 6 months. The “whisky” had a zesty, zingy profile. Many people enjoyed sipping it. For serious whisky drinkers, it was a no go. Whisky, they said, should not be zesty. As for peas, there will be a residual flavor of some sort that gets imparted to the distillate. To get rid of this flavor will require distilling the alcohol through multiple plates in a tall column to get 96% abv product. Even then, there still might be a trace of unique flavor.

I am going to try to make some pea alcohol in the coming weeks. I have access to organic field peas that have not ever seen any added chemical or pesticide. I will mash using enzymes and ferment with Lallemand distillers yeast. It is my understanding that peas have perhaps 20% carbohydrate content. Maybe this number is not totally accurate, but in any case peas will have less fermentable starch than cereal grain.

I will post again on this site when I have some alcohol made. Stay tuned. In the meantime, when you hear about using “novel” ingredients to make alcohol, exercise some skepticism. Cereal grains are not going to be replaced any time soon… Anyone with some common sense knows that…..

Spiced Rum

There are some incredible flavor-manufacturing companies in existence. One that I highly recommend is Food Arom.

I recently asked Food Arom to send me some sample vials of Rum Spice flavor so I could experiment with making a spiced rum.

The vials are shown in this photo.

I took 20 mls of rum ( the bottle in the photo is 63% alc Hi Proof rum from Jamaica) and added 10 mls of a spice solution. The next result was a mixture that measured 42% alc.

I repeated this exercise with each of the other vials.

This is a very efficient way to arrive at a recipe formulation.

For the record, two of the vials had what I detected to be a high AllSpice/Clove content. A little over the top for my taste buds. The third vial however, was bang on ! It was aromatic and the spiciness was smooth. When I mixed my 30 ml sample with a splash of Egg Nog, I was in nirvana.

Food Arom has the N. American continent divided into sales territories. Here in Saskatchewan, I end up dealing with a sales guy in St. Louis. Wherever you live, Food Arom will look after you.

If a flavored beverage libation is your goal, let Food Arom take care of you…..

In my upcoming 5-day Workshops I will go into more detail on flavor additives.

The Rangpur Lime

I normally steer clear of commercial London Dry Gins. The other day my wife brought home a bottle of Tanqueray Rangpur Gin because the supply of my homemade Gin was depleted (geez! wonder how that happened?). I had a sip of Rangpur and was blown away! The citrus profile is beyond delicious. The label hints that the rangpur lime is rare. It is actually not.

The rangpur is a natural cross between a female citron fruit and a male mandarin fruit. In fact, our citrus type fruits all can trace their origins back to the citron fruit.

citron fruit

The rangpur lime grows in south east Asia and even in the USA. The rangpur lime is called canton lemon in China; hime lemon in Japan; limao galego in Brazil; and mandarin lime in the USA.

rangpur lime

If you are a craft distiller or even a home distiller, try to source some of these limes. The Gin you create will be truly elegant!

The Gin Act of 1736

Hey Gin drinkers! Was doing a bit of late night history reading over a few drams last night.

Did you know….. on Feb 20, 1736 a petition was presented to the British House of Commons asking for regulation on Gin. The petition alleged “that the drinking of Gin had excessively increased amongst people of inferior rank”. This excessive consumption had “destroyed thousands and rendered great numbers of others unfit for labour, had debauched their morals and had driven them into every vice”.

What came of all this was the Gin Act of 1736 which passed on Sept 29, 1736. The Act imposed a tax of 20 shillings per gallon on Gin plus a 50 Pound annual license fee on retail sellers of Gin.

BUT, the Act was evaded. People pretending to the “chemists” set up shop selling Gin as baby’s colick water. Gin also started to be sold under disguised names such as Tom Row, Make Shift and Ladies Delight.

By 1743, Gin intake had actually increased. To counter this, Gov’t encouraged the drinking of Rum from the Colonies, provided that it was sold to the retail consumer at 1 part Rum and 2 parts water. This came to be known as “2-water grog”. But that’s a story for another time…


source: The Historians History of the Word, vol 20, published 1904.